Captain’s Log – Barra 2024

Our trip diary from our expedition out to Barra in 2024, check out all the spills and thrills below. Join us in June 2025 – Barra 2025

Day 1 – Travel to Barra

It was a grey & gloomy day, with strong winds forecast. The ferry left Oban around 13:30 without any issues but I had to leave early with the boat to try and make the best of the lighter winds. Sea conditions were not bad between Oban & north Mull but rough from half way to Coll till a few miles from Barra. A good reminder that we’re dealing with the open Altlantic even with the sturdiness of the 12m Redbay boat. In order to get a better angle for keeping speed, our passage took us north towards Eriskay. But once inshore we could pick up the speed once again when in the shelter of the islands.  Once berthed at Castlebay everything was prepped for our first day on the water tomorrow. Everyone arrived ok on the evening ferry arrival, checked in and settled down before an early start in the morning.

Day 2  – Mingulay & Pabbay

Our first day looked to be one of the calmer ones, so we headed to Mingulay for our first landing. This is one of the main highlights of the trip and one where we spend a long time ashore, so we need one of the better weather days for it – especially the landing which can be tricky if there is any waves. The swell forecast was holding at around a couple of feet, so pretty manageable for the first day.

Our first wildlife encounter was the mass of grey seals on the beach. As the wind was from west the seals were using the sheltered bay and the ranger confirmed his daily count was over the 3000 mark. This was the biggest colony any of us has seen – always a spectacular view accompanied by the golden sands and turquoise waters.

We set off for the west coast cliffs of the Carnan hill, eagle spotting along the way before reaching the vertical drops of the >200m cliffs. It’s a spectacular location looking out into the Atlantic, watching the waves crash into the cliffs far below and watching all the puffins, guillemots, fulmars gliding and nesting.

Returning to the beach via the ruins is always a good point to talk about the previous inhabitants of Mingulay and the history of the previous community here. A short walk up to the puffin burrows made a convenient point to stop and enjoy lunch with the puffins overlooking the beach & seals. With a bit of an energy boost we headed back to the boat to kit up into our snorkel gear for an orientation and explore in the bay. Lots of marine life to be found, including a huge lobster and a few seals came over to join us too.

That sounds like a full day already but it wasn’t the end to our adventures. We wanted to make the most of the sea conditions so we planned to stay out a good while today, so onto the next island!

Pabbay is a neighbouring island to Mingulay with just as beautiful a bay. It’s usually a sheltered anchorage and a lovely place to explore. The ruined house & standing stone show the layers of history from the previous human habitation but there are some wonderful dunes, rocky coastline & sandy bay to also discover. As we are leaving, our returning guest, Tors, never turns down the chance of a swim and chooses the watery route back to the boat rather than the dingy!

Heading back to Barra we had arranged for our group pizza night which was very welcome after a long day out. Thanks so much to Joan’s Pizza!

Day 3 – Barra East Coast & Vatersay

After getting back about 7pm last night, we had a later start as we knew it would be a shorter day with high winds forecast. We were pleasantly surprised when we arrived into Castlebay mid morning to sunny skies and calm conditions inshore. Although it wasn’t to stay like this, we headed round the inner isles checking out seabirds and two sea eagles close by. Some members of the bottlenose dolphin pod spent some time with us but by mid afternoon the seas really increased so we headed back to base. Travel plus a long day on our first day meant that everyone was glad to head back for a rest.

Day 4 – Sandray

A mixed forecast today but sunny skies as we arrived to the boat. Whilst loading up a very ominous cloud appeared from the west, next thing we knew there was a huge hail shower. Quite ridiculous for June but not unheard of. Thankfully it passed quickly and the sun came out! Whilst laughing about it we shared the video on social media, which later made the 6pm news. Haha, slow news day? Check out the link here! 

Heading down to Sandray we saw our dolphins buddies from yesterday who were still hanging round the same spot. There  was still some swell wrapping into the bay and a few nervous glances when I suggested we’d be surfing in but it was nothing we hadn’t seen before. There’s  a wee sheltered corner where you can normally get in without problem – but this one is shoes & socks off and roll up your trousers.

We set off for our hike around the island, beachcombing as we reached the start of the climb. Upon ascending to the main rocky ridge we had spectaclar views over the bay and around the archipelago. Dropping over the ridge we worked our way around the landscape fringed by hundreds  of orchids. Seals played around the skerries and birds glided around the skies as we gazed out to sea. We took the trickier route on the way back which was beyond a few folks comfort zones. However it was great to see everyone working together as a team and safely get back down to the beach with some inner challenges overcome.

Back down to our RV point there was a period of incredible light, another hail shower passed in the distance (thankfully missing us) along with bright sunlight. The Hebrides are well known for amazing light and landscape with quite a specific colour palette.

We made our way out to the boat through the small waves and got kitted up for some wild swims & snorkeling. Again a few seals saying hello and lots of marine life around the kelp forest.

Day 5 – Berneray / Barra Head & Mingulay

Another big swell forecast and a rougher passage till we reached some shelter behind Sandray & Mingulay. A mayday came through on the radio and Barra lifeboat was launched, we started to prepare to assist but the call came in that it was a false alarm and a EPIRB activated by mistake. It was a bit of a relief given the sea conditions on the west side. In the sound of Berneray, whilst the wind wasn’t so strong, there was a huge sea running. We headed west with the thought of sneaking out to check out the bird cliffs but with the tide running against the sea there was some seriously big swells so we had 2nd thoughts and headed back to the landing spot.

The swell was wrapping round despite the excellent shelter provided by the aptly named shelter rock. A quick recce and landing was do-able. A good lift on the rocks made it interesting but everyone got ashore safely. Hubi stayed on to help beach the dingy and we timed the waves to catch a quiet spell. It seemed all good until the last min when a rouge one came through and dumped the dingy on the beach. A little wet but all fine! Never a dull moment in these parts!

Heading up the main path we stopped at one of the ruins for a nice story about Padraig Mor (big Patrick), the Barra giant. His house sits on the track up the hill which he had altered to accommodate his 2.03m frame. Returning guest Hubi had similar proportions to Padraig but still had to stoop down to get through the door. We had to try and recreate the picture of Padraig (although his picture is actually at Castlebay). Hubi Mor was now home!!!

We followed the track up the top of the cliffs and lighthouse, one of the most spectacular views on the trip. At 211m above sea level, the lighthouse at the top of the cliff faces the open Atlantic and feels every bit the edge of the world. Canada ~3200km to the west and Ireland 170km to the South. Thousands of seabirds cruise around the cliffs, with eagles patrolling above. We had some great views of nesting puffins, guillemots and razorbills in the cliffs and sat above the Sloc na Beiste for a while, the name meaning  hollow/pit of the beast – originating from one of the old legends on the isle. We always love to imagine the raw power of the fiercest ocean storms here with reports of fish being thrown up to the top of the cliffs in the most violent of conditions, along with huge boulders being shifted.

Everyone explored around the ruins and old gardens, cemetery & memorial before heading back down to the meeting point. The swell had calmed down considerably so heading back on board was a much easier task. The east side of the island looked very sheltered so we elected to cruise round with the hope of reaching the bird cliff. The angle was just right to give us enough calm water to experience the 200m cliffs, tens of thousand of seabirds and a few eagles patrolling. A highlight for many on board.

We still had some time so we stopped in at Mingulay for a 2nd time. The swell was a lot bigger than last time which looked a lot more challenging than previous attempts but do-able between the sets. One wet landing and on the second attempt a swell took me out whilst holding the dingy.  An impromptu clothes change and snapped oars along with a knock to the pride – plenty of entertainment for the guests to see the skipper get a soaking though!!! A more leisurely walk for everyone around the bay this time. Plenty of time to watch an even bigger number of seals which had congregated on the beach. So cool to see them surfing in and out, fighting, bellowing – something out of blue planet!  In the meantime I had to move the boat to the north end to find a bit more shelter for pick up.  No further dunking and it was a choppy trip back to Castlebay accompanied by some spectacular  rainbows.

Back home a good shower, rest and food to recharge the batteries. Tonight’s sunset was a special one looking out west!

Day 6 – Mingulay & North Sandray 

The theme of the week was certainly the weather. Today was an earlier start to the day as we wanted to try and get another snorkel in before there wind picked up, so it was full gas down to Mingulay bay before the worst came in. Even though there was plenty shelter in the bay, the sounds between the islands can get very rough.

The visibility wasn’t quite up to its normal level but still lovely to explore the cliffs, caves, arches, kelp forests and play with all the selkie seals! We packed up pretty quick as the weather was ramping up and high tailed it back north towards shelter. Originally we had planned to go back but with the amount of shelter from the islands in the north and the sun appearing we knew another sheltered place for a landing and explore.

A few hours exploring the dunes, rock pooling (a juvenile conger eel & gem anemones being a rare spot) and hiking and we were ready to head back for the evening. Def a point where people are getting tired after all the adventures, swims & hikes. A trip where you sleep well!!!

Day 7 – Land day to Vatersay

Our last day and we started off with a trip down to our final island of Vatersay. A big tick on the agenda was firstly to the village hall where there is a community run cafe with the most amazing cakes. The group had worked up a big appetite over the week so breakfasts & cakes were on the cards.

After a good feed we went for an explore and beachcomber, our biologists finding shark egg cases amongst lots of other critters. The biggest find was a stranded Risso’s dolphin, not one we had seen stranded before. As sad as the death of there animal was, it was also very interesting as you could see the wear on the teeth (unusual as it was only to one side and perhaps from the animals feeding in a specific way such as foraging for octopus in the coastal area, or perhaps from the raking behaviour). You could also see the rake marks which can be used for ID of the animal and we made sure to send the pictures to the researchers for consideration.

We made our way along the coast and ended up at ‘the gate’ for the obligatory picture – the sun was out and it was tropical looking!

We hadn’t ventured as far as we would have liked this week so we added an extra local boat session in this afternoon and again found our bottlenose chum. A few swam or snorkelled, and others just chilled onboard, as by now everyone was firm friends.

It was then time to head home and start packing up. The departing ferry is very early so everything needed sorted this evening, packing up the houses, personal kit and also the boat for the return passage.

Day 8 – Ferry and boat back to Oban

Ouch – early start for the 0700 departure! It does make for a lunchtime arrival to Oban and onward journeys. A sad goodbye to all our new friends – thanks for another amazing trip. Not much respite for the team as we have a day to get everything sorted before our next trip from Oban to Fingal’s Cave. Until next year Barra, we can’t wait to get out again. No two trips are the same here, we’re filled with ideas and aspirations for exploring new places and revisiting our favourites. This trip is the firm favourite of the staff for a reason! It was a very windy week which didn’t look too promising at the beginning but it was amazing how much shelter there is around the islands and we achieved far more than the forecast would have suggested!